We did a three day guided boat tour of the Danube Delta in the Autumn starting from Tulcea and staying in Mila 23. Our first point of call and in fact the inspiration for our whole Romanian road trip started from Chris’s wish to see the Delta and its incredible birdlife. We went with Saker Tour and they did not disappoint with a great photography boat and a fantastic local guide. Every day was a new experience in the Delta.
Tulcea, the gateway to the Danube Delta
We arrived in Tulcea (pronounced tool-cha) a bustling hubbub of a port and cultural mishmash of a city having been successively under the rule of multiple international administrations. It is the largest port in the area and the entryway to the delta. Founded in the 7th Century BC by the Dacians the city was then conquered, remodelled and ruled by the Romans, the Byzantine, the Genoese, and the Ottomans before finally returning to Romania in 1878. Our campsite was close to the passenger port and at the foot of the hill with the Monumental Eriolor. We climbed the hill to the monument to watch the sunset. A perfect place to take in this ancient harbour city sprawling out from the river and across its seven hills.
Meeting Our Guide for the Delta
We met our guide at 8am on the docks the next morning and were greeted by a small covered boat with comfy beanbags in the back that would be our spot for the next four days. Leaving the docks we sped out onto the Danube. Boats whizzing by in all directions. Wide flat cargo boats steaming down the channel towards the city. Small fishing boats heading into the delta for the weekend. As the city faded behind us, we were absorbed into the Delta and its birdlife. Herons scattered all over the banks. Cormorants perched on every dead branch, posing for the passing photographer with their wings spread out to dry. Birds of prey quietly surveying the waters below.
Mila 23
This small fishing and farming community is only reached by boat. The village is peppered with guesthouses all along the waterline. Floating jetties with tables for dining out on. Boats moored up anywhere they can find a spot. The village itself is completely pedestrian and lovely for a stroll to look at the charming houses and their bountiful gardens. Walking along the waterfront you’ll come to the museum and placards that celebrate the incredible Olympic rowing and ice skating achievements of some of the villagers. The most famous being sprint rower Ivan Patzaichan who took part in five consecutive Olympic games winning 7 medals, 4 Gold and three silver.
Our guesthouse was on the small inner channel. Simple, clean rooms and welcoming hosts. The food was fabulous, local seafood with every meal. Each evening we looked forward to the small and deliciously sweet, bright red, miniature lobsters fresh from the pots in the delta. Followed by a hearty fish stew and a sweet treat for dessert.
Sunrise on the Danube Delta
We headed out on the boat every morning at the crack of dawn. As we moved through the channels the light would shift and the waters would take on the brilliant orange, pinks and purples of sunrise. We would enter one of the shallow lakes and float silently watching the birds hunting in the rushes. The squacco herons standing still as a statue, waiting for an unsuspecting frog to hop within range. The great crested grebes teaching their young to dive for the tiny fish.
Pelicans Fleet Feeding in the Danube Delta
You frequently come across single or small groups of pelicans all over the delta. The real treat is to see a fleet of hundreds, even thousands of pelicans feeding together. The pelicans hunt together with cormorants to round up shoals of fish in the shallow water. The pelicans bashing their wings against the water to startle the fish and the cormorants’ diving under catching fish and driving the shoal up towards the pelicans who fill their great beaks full of fish. This writhing mass of hunting birds completely oblivious to the photographers floating nearby.
Mammals in the Danube Delta
There are wildcats, raccoon dogs and golden jackals in the delta. We were lucky to chance upon a pair of young jackals one evening as we were returning back to Mila 23. We spotted the cubs down at the waterline having a drink and heard the howls of the rest of the pack nearby.
Where to Stay in Tulcea and Mila 23
Mila 23 – There are many guesthouses in Mila 23, booking in advance is recommended at particular times of the year. We stayed at Casa Pelicanul Cret, quietly situated on the inner channel of Mila 23. With a lovely veranda over the water for dining. Rooms were spacious, clean and very well priced. The guesthouse is also an easy walk to the bars and shops on the main waterfront.
Tulcea – We were in our campervan and stayed one night in the camping Tulcea, Delta camp. Very friendly Dutch owner. Good facilities in this small campsite with use of washers and dryers included in the price. There is also a small supermarket right next to the campsite for any essentials. The camping is also conveniently located near to the passenger boat terminal for morning pickups.
