The Ciucas mountains are one of our favorite hiking destinations in Romania. This is a great trail to Ciucas Peak from Cabana Muntele Rosu. You will enjoy the beech forests, wildlife, and spectacular karst rock formations.
Hike the Ciucas Ridge
Nothing can prepare you for the beauty of the karst limestone rock formations whilst hiking the Ciucas Mountains. The Ciucas Mountains are part of the Sub Carpathians, also known as the Eastern Carpathians of Romania. The Ciucas ridge on either side of the Ciucas peak is known for its picturesque limestone rock towers known locally as the frying pans. There are multiple named rock formations including Babele le Sfat and the Tower of Goliath.
There are multiple well-marked routes to hike to Cuicas peak. We started from Cabana Muntele Rosu where we had spent a very quiet night in our campervan in the public car park. Other options are; Bratelea Pass – however, we did not want to leave our campervan here as the car park is beside a busy road and we saw a sign warning of thieves breaking into cars. You can also start the walk from the car park at the bottom of the road to Cabana Cuicas, but you will be walking the first 5Km on the road up to the Cabana.
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Camping Under The Stars -
Cheia From Montele Rosu -
Beech Forests From Montele Rosu
Hiking Cabana Muntele Rosu to Ciucas Peak
The Cabana Montelu Rosu to Cuicas Peak trail is very well marked and easy to follow. We started the hike at 7am so that we would complete the ascent (766m) in the cool of the morning. We arrived at Ciucas peak 6.8KM and 3hours later at 10.30am, having taken multiple short breaks to admire the scenery.
The Start of the Trail to Ciucas Peak
The signs for the trail start behind the cabana directing you through the meadow and into the forest. We had a quick stop as we entered the forest to google what to do if we encountered a bear as dusk and dawn are when they are most active! The trail through the forest is, for the most part, a gentle descent towards the Valea Bereii. Then you pick up the road that climbs to Cabana Ciucas.
The road up to Cabana Ciucas is very steep, but the stone slabs that have been laid for it are like small steps. So it’s not too difficult as long as you go at your own pace. Definitely advisable to do it in the early morning whilst it was still in the shade. We also chanced upon a golden jackal out for a morning forage when we neared the top.
Bear Safety Tips When Hiking in Romania
- Try not to surprise a bear – Make noise as you walk and they will avoid you. A good excuse to sing along and clap if you are not feeling chatty with your hiking buddies.
- If you surprise a bear – don’t turn your back to them and run away as they will chase. We followed tip 1 and I think my singing had already scared any that might have been nearby away.
Cabana Ciucas to Ciucas Peak
The top of the road opens out to a meadow where you will find the Cabana Ciucas. You can stay here and they will come and pick you up from the car park at the bottom of the road at request. Otherwise, it is a handy refreshment stop. They have a restaurant and bar and plenty of tables outside to enjoy the view.
The path continues past the Cabana and it’s a gentle ascent through meadow to the ridgeline. Here you get your first glimpse of the spectacular limestone rock formations.
The trail towards Ciucas Ridge from Cabana Ciucas
The first viewpoint you reach is the Tigaile Mare a wonderland of natural stone sculptures that descend to the right and left of the ridge. It took our breath away more than the altitude!
The track gets steeper in places from here as you climb up a gulley to the striking Babele La Sfat. Which translates to ‘old women in counsel’. But to me looks like the rocks are kissing! From here the sign points to Ciucas Peak, only another 300m and not as steep as the previous part.
The flag pole at the top of the Vf Ciucas peak lets you know you have arrived at your destination! Be sure to take time and enjoy a rest and the panoramic view. With a 360 birds-eye view of the surrounding mountains and the limestone rock sculptures. You can see all the way to Brasov and the lowlands surrounding it.
We returned on the same route, and enjoyed a refreshing pint of Ciucas beer at the Cabana on the way down! All in all the hike there and back with stops took us six hours. You can find the recording of our trail in the link below.
All Trails Route Recording – Cabana Montelu Rosu to Vf. Cuicas Peak
Hiking the Ciucas Mountains – Practical Tips
Getting There: The road up to Cabana Montelu Rosu is new (2018) and with a good asphalt surface. It is steep and narrow in places so keep your eyes open for passing places in case you need them. Our motorhome had no problem getting up there, mostly in 1st and 2nd gear!
Parking: There is flat public parking along the side of the road before the cabana with space for 20 or so cars. We were there on a weekday in September and there were only a handful of other cars. However, we had read it can be really busy in the summer season. One group put a tent up and camped on the grass by the road near the forest. We did see signs up prohibiting camping on the ‘private’ meadow immediately in front of the Cabana.
Accommodation: There are two accommodation options; Cabana Montelu Rosu and Cabana Silva. Both were closed when we were there due to COVID-19. You can also spend the night in Cheia where there are multiple options and drive up in the morning.
Romania is an insanely good country for hiking with the Carpathian Mountains going from North to South through the entire country, pretty much wherever you are you can plan for a good hike. This is in my top 5 hikes for Romania. Each one has something out of the ordinary from spectacular natural rock formations, deep limestone gorges and caves to traditional remote villages and watermills
